CRITIC REVIEWS
Michaela Morris
Comparing 2015 with 2016, technical director Federico Radi says that the latter is more balanced and aromatic owing to overall cooler temperatures in July and August. It is certainly more in line with Biondi Santi’s angular, austere style and unmistakable in its class and potential. With the utmost restraint, flinty mineral notes make way for scents of dried leaves, forest wildflowers and fresh mint. Perfectly poised on the palate, this is midweight yet plumbs great depths, expressing pomegranate, fennel and orange peel. While its tannins have a certain rigidity and are decidedly linear in direction, they are not massive. It is a rather sneaky wine that needs a few more years in the cellar. Brilliantly succulent finish.
Walter Speller
Tasted from a freshly opened bottle without decanting or aeration: Lustrous mid ruby. A balsamic nose with hidden depth. Layered like an onion and with aeration finely perfumed. Compact, almost linear and transparent red fruit on the palate with a layer of bitter-sweet powdery tannins that are a little dominant right now. Shy, long, lingering fruit finish that demands much more time in the bottle. Like a decade, and probably more. Day 2: A little monolithic and still not entirely open on the nose. Very slow for the cherry fruit to rise from the glass. Fantastic compact core of pure sour cherry and still-formidable tannins that have become more polished over the last 24 hours. Still embryonic and no signs of any oxidation. Day 3: Still not entirely open on the nose but with a brooding intensity. Less balsamic and more fruit-focused than 24 hours ago. A ripe layer of fruit that is still embryonic and with now firm but polished tannins. Layered and concentrated. Fantastic balance. (WS)