Henschke, Hill of Grace Vineyard, Eden Valley 2017

CRITIC REVIEWS

Sarah Ahmed

Muscular with great vitality and sensuality, Hill of Grace 2017 combines gravitas with grace. Supple swathes of fruit – blackberry with blueberry and red cherry – come scented with china ink, tinder bush, black pepper, star anise, wattleseed, tea leaf and baking spices. Tobacco pouch, mulch and subtle game undertones strike a savoury note. Rafts of seamless, spicy tannins build and buoy layers of flavour. Terrific authority, strength, complexity and length.

18+

Jancis Robinson

Full screwcapped bottle 1,265 g. The famous Hill of Grace west-facing vineyard 4 km north of Mount Edelstone that was planted with pre-phylloxera plants, the Grandfathers, brought from Europe in the mid 1800s, on very varied soils. Red-brown clay-loam grades to deep silty loam at 400 m over slate bedrock. Average rainfall is 520 mm a year. The original Ancestors vines are now about 160 years old. There are also centenarian vines and some that were planted about 35 years ago – all on their own roots, hence strict hygiene controls on those entering the vineyard. Each block is different apparently: House (the lightest soils with gravel in middle), Church (shallower red clay), PO Block 2 (shallower than 1), PO Block 1, Grandfathers (on the deepest soil with vines that take ages to ripen but offer exotic and spicy flavours), Windmill (less loess, more red clay and more vigorous – competes for latest with Grandfathers). An anti-frost fan was installed in 2005. Picked 18 to 21 April. This wine is really all about the vineyard rather than the winery. Matured for 18 months in oak hogsheads (29% new), of which 17% were American rather than French oak. pH 3.52, TA 6.4 g/l.

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