Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco, Asili Riserva 2014
CRITIC REVIEWS
Monica Larner
Packaged in its distinctive red label (red is for Riserva), the 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Asili represents a tremendous effort in a challenging but ultimately very rewarding vintage. This wine will be released in February 2019. The previous edition was 2011, and Bruna Giacosa tells me that it will be produced in 2016 and possibly 2017—although this has not yet been officially confirmed. In a normal vintage, production is 11,000 bottles strong, but because of reduced yields in 2014 we can expect some 8,000 bottles instead. Growing conditions in 2014 were cause for concern up until the end of August because of humidity and below average temperatures. Those conditions changed suddenly in the nick of time, bringing strong sunshine and warmth during the final stage of grape ripening. Ultimately, 2014 proved to be a long growing season with healthy fruit in reduced volume. The Rabajà cru sometimes shows a harder edge with more mineral definition. Asili, in comparison, offers gorgeous intensity and profound depth. This Riserva shows seamless integration of wild fruit, blue flower, spice, balsam herb and pencil shaving. This is a complete and complex expression with an enduring sense of dimension and structure. I can’t wait to taste this wine one day in the far future when it is further along on its promising evolutionary track.
Stephen Brook
A magnificent result for 2014, but then this is a legendary wine: a top bottling from a top estate. The nose is rich, juicy, and exuberant, with piquant raspberry aromas. Its undoubtedly rich and full-bodied, and theres no lack of volume or concentration. The tannins are bold and fleshy, and the wine overall is surprisingly succulent and approachable. Very long, grainy finish.
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