CRITIC REVIEWS
Jancis Robinson
Intense and impressively concentrated and open on the nose. Hint of talc. Very fruity and easy. Without too much Graacher graininess. GV
David Schildknecht
The sole (shades of last year!) Schaefer 2010 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett smells alluringly and site-typically of apple, lemon, ginger, cashew and pistachio; as well as more intriguingly of musk and toasted grains. In something of a reversal from their anticipated roles, this is more airy and elegant, wearing its measurably high extract less on its sleeve than does the corresponding Himmelreich. Here, in fact, is one of those rare 2010s labeled as “Kabinett” that’s not only impressive but also arguably appropriately labeled! “I think they’ve switched roles since bottling,” cautions Christoph Schaefer, “because earlier the Himmelreich definitely seemed the more delicate.” A sense of transparency to nuances of salt, stone, and spice lends the generously juicy finish complexity, even if I’d give that of the Himmelreich the edge in focus and sheer next sip-inducing irresistibility. This Kabinett, too, is apt to be a delight for the next 20 years, and might well seem a more profound one with time.