CRITIC REVIEWS
Anthony Rose
A blend of fruit from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Wrattonbully, this so-called ‘Baby Grange’ is matured for 12 months in American oak, partly in previous-vintage Grange casks. It has a very special quality on the nose, combining as it does both the cassis of Cabernet (54%) and liquorice-spiced dark fruit of Shiraz (46%), with a note of mint.and the veneer of vanilla oak. An Australian classic (dare I mention icon...), it has a seductive sweetness and richness of spice-infused dark fruit on the palate, supported by a touch of mint and sweet vanillin oak, all silky-textured in this vintage. Its almost forward, suggesting early approachability and yet, deceptively, with a structure of firm tannins and a fine spine of acidity for good ageing potential. One for spiced duck breast or oxtail.
Jeb Dunnuck
Close to an even split of each, the 2017 Cabernet Shiraz, which is always aged in the prior year’s Grange barrels, is a beauty, offering full-bodied, powerful notes of blackcurrants, tobacco leaf, chocolate, toasted spices, and gravelly minerality. Deep, beautifully concentrated, and balanced, it has nicely integrated acidity, ripe yet present tannins, and, again, just terrific overall balance. It also builds beautifully with time in the glass and is a seriously good red blend from this team. Drink it any time over the coming 10-15 years.