Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses Brut LV 1998
CRITIC REVIEWS
Georgina Hindle
A library release of around 600 bottles from Philipponnats oenotheque range. Salty aromas on the nose with fresh almonds - you can smell age and richness but the colour is remarkable, not at all deep gold or brown more bright gold, this smells older than it looks. Lots of pear, ripe and fresh with vanilla, sandalwood, floral scents and softly spiced accents on the nose alongside a faint truffle aroma. The palate is focussed and straight with an iodine, lemon and lime tang in the middle while the edges carry the maturity with smoked meat, cepe, buttery toast, vanilla cream pastry, salt and a touch of exotic fruit. Persistent, intense, complex, rich and so intriguing - a real ride of flavour and texture. A wonderful treat to taste a historic vintage direct from the estate and to be able to compare it to the initial release if you have any. Dosage 4.25g/l.
Tom Hewson
LV is the late disgorgement program at Philipponnat, with this bottle being disgorged in March 2023. 1998 was the last vintage before modernisation of the winemaking facilities under Charles Philipponnat. Tremendously characterful and layered, the 1998 shows a little wild side with a lightly briny, leathery complexity behind dried apricot, roasted pineapple and greengage fruit that shows some of the forward generosity of the year. Theres plenty of brambly, true Pinot shining through still, with the late disgorgement preserving the fruit amid all the complexity of age. No need to cellar this further. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay vinified entirely in foudres.
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