CRITIC REVIEWS
Monica Larner
If the Barbaresco Costa Russi expresses itself with purity and grace, the 2016 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo struts out stacked and tall. It has firmer textural support and is not as timid or as withholding as the Costa Russi. The Sorì San Lorenzo site is located closest to the warm air currents that travel down the Tanaro River valley, and this vineyard site is always the first to ripen and be harvested. You get a stronger mineral note here with iron rust, pencil shaving and potting soil intertwined with the primary fruit, showing dazzlingly intricate complexity and depth. This vineyard site suffered in the 2017 vintage from some hail damage that hit on July 19. The quality of fruit is expected to be good, Gaia Gaja tells me, but yields will be reduced next year.
Clive Pursehouse
From west and south-facing sites sitting high above the Tanaro River. Cool and dewy mornings help the hot site moderate temperature. The signature of Sorì San Lorenzo is its woody tannins present in this wine, though seven years on integrating well with the fruit—aromatics of white and black peppercorn, crushed blackberry in summer, and fresh anise. There is absolute completeness to this bottling, a melding of fruit, florality and structure. Flavours of black liquorice, graphite and crushed stone mineral streak across the ripe and accessible fruit flavours. Black plum, fig, and strawberries with balsamic. Delicious.